Kitchen Costuming

In AZspidey’s quest for proper replication of his Ghostbuster costume, I needed to add zippers to his combat boots.  Since the correct color of the zipper appeared to be black with silver metal teeth, a 24 inch heavy jacket zipper was the only one we could find that met that description.  Of course we only needed about a 9.5 inch zipper, but silver metal is not easy to come by in that size.  For those of you who are going to try this yourself and are not so picky, zippers do come in brass in a more appropriate size.

You will also need an awl and waxed thread (made for the awl) that can be purchased at Tandy Leather Factory  www.tandyleatherfactory.com .  I suppose you can use a really heavy needle, but the awl is much easier to handle. A 12-inch ruler, small bottle of white glue, a hot glue gun, chalk (or something else to mark with), a regular needle and thread are other items you will need.

Preparing the boot for the zipper…

To begin, I lined up the zipper on the boot with the edge of the zipper touching edge of the boot seam line (figure 1). 

Figure 1

I measured in 3.5 inches along the top of the boot from the eyelet edge and marked it with chalk.  This measurement could be a little more or less depending on the size of your boot.  With a ruler, draw a line with chalk along the path where the zipper teeth will go, stopping approximately one half inch above the stitches on the boot (figure 2).  Make sure you are marking the inseam not the outside of your boot.  Once you cut on this line, you are now committed to the zipper going there (unless you want to buy a new pair of boots).

Figure 2

After cutting the first line, go back and trim about 1/8 inch on each side.  I just rounded the cut as I got to the bottom (figure 3), but you can cut straight down and the just clip off when you get to the end.

Figure 3

After cutting leather, the edge of the leather may not have absorbed the dye, so I went back and painted the edge of the cut with black acrylic paint (figure 4). 

Figure 4

Figure 5

I just happened to have Ceramcoat paint, but any acrylic paint will do (figure 5).  If your boots are vinyl and not leather, you can probably skip this part.

Sewing in the zipper…

We are almost ready to sew in the zipper.  Since the zipper comes apart at the bottom, I sewed around the teeth creating a stop (this was probably just being overly cautious).  Use the smaller needle that comes with the awl.  Once you have threaded it, only pull the thread out about one inch (figure 6). 

Figure 6

Dip the end of the thread in white glue, wipe off excess and let dry. Now, place the zipper inside the boot (I was able to push the entire end of the zipper underneath the arch pad).  By holding the zipper in place, starting at the bottom of the cut on the side closest to the heel (this is really important that you start on this side first), push the awl through the leather and the zipper.  With the needle still inserted into the hole, grab the end of the thread and pull it out until the length is one and a half times longer than the length you will be sewing. As you are pulling the needle back out (figure 7), a loop will be created on the back part of the stitch (inside boot).

Figure 7

 Put the thread through the loop and pull the needle back out; tightening each stitch as you go (figures 8 and 9).

Figure 8

Figure 9

Sometimes the needle loops on both sides, if the awl comes out and there is not just one thread, you put the back thread through the wrong loop. It looks like you really messed up, but is simple to fix.  Loosen the loop and pull the back thread out of the loop, tighten up the slack on your awl and start again.  I did this several times.  Sometimes it is hard to see which loop to put it in (technically it is the side of the needle that doesn’t have the groove in it).

Move the needle over about 1/16 inch and repeat stitch process all the way up to the top of the boot. The shorter you keep the thread coming from the spool into the stitch, the easier this is (Figure 10).

Figure 10

On the last stitch, with awl still in the hole, pull the thread out to about 4 inches and cut off.  You should now have two threads coming out the back (or inside) of the boot.  Tie these in a knot and dab them with hot glue.

Continue sewing other side of the zipper starting where you left off at the bottom and going across the zipper.  You can use the same hole you started with, just go the opposite way (you will have to make a wide stitch across the zipper teeth).

I did not cut the excess off the zippers until I finished sewing, but you can cut them about 3 inches above the top of the boot if they get in your way.  You will need to create a stop at where you want your zipper to end.  Before you make the zipper ends shorter, figure out which metal tooth will be at the top of your boot by zipping up the zipper. Mark teeth on both sides with a marker pen. Because the zipper is on an angle, one side will be longer than the other. Count down two teeth on the shorter side and sew with needle and thread around and around that tooth until the zipper pull stops.

 Finishing the zipper…

Now that the zipper is sewed in, you will need the hot glue gun.  Put a tiny dab of glue between top of boot and zipper. Squeeze a small amount of glue on zipper next to teeth starting about ¼ inch above top of boot.  Smooth glue out with tip of glue gun until you have covered about an inch down. Do this on back and front of both zipper sides.  You only want a thin layer here, so don’t go crazy with the glue.  You do not want to get this all over the teeth. On the teeth that you marked earlier, squeeze a little blob of glue (a second stop protection). Let cool, then cut zipper ends off flush and angled with the cut of your boot.  If you don’t like the looks of the “glue” stop, you can either paint them black or use a black permanent marker like I did. Woohoo!  Now you’re done!

Finished Boot